Pornic, the Côte de Jade and the beaches of the Pays de Retz from Bourgneuf-en-Retz
Fifteen minutes from La Maison du Bonheur, Pornic and the Côte de Jade line up an old harbour, a coastal path and rocky coves. Closer still, the family beaches of the Bay of Bourgneuf. Our beach-by-beach guide, by tide and by children's age.
Two coasts within fifteen minutes
From La Maison du Bonheur in Bourgneuf-en-Retz you have two very different seasides to choose from each morning. To the south-east, the Bay of Bourgneuf: wide, shallow, family-friendly beaches facing the island of Noirmoutier. To the west, the Côte de Jade around Pornic: rocky coves, a coastal path and a working harbour. Both are ten to fifteen minutes by car.
The bay beaches: Les Moutiers-en-Retz and La Bernerie-en-Retz
Les Moutiers-en-Retz (about 10 minutes) is the closest proper beach: fine sand, water that stays shallow a long way out, and at low tide a huge expanse for shellfish gathering. The village keeps its traditional pêcheries, the wooden fishing huts on stilts you see along the shore. Good for toddlers and for anyone who wants a quiet day.
La Bernerie-en-Retz (about 12 minutes) is the small resort of the bay: a promenade, a handful of cafés, a beach that is sheltered and easy with children, and a tidal harbour. Check the tide table before you go: at low tide the sea is a long walk away, at high tide the beach is at its best.
Pornic and the Côte de Jade
Pornic (about 15 minutes) is the town for an evening out: the old harbour lined with restaurants, the castle above it, and the sentier des douaniers, the customs officers' path that follows the cliffs from the harbour past the beach of La Noëveillard and the Plage de la Source to the smaller coves. The market takes over the town centre on Thursday and Sunday mornings. Sea-water thalassotherapy, a casino and boat trips to Noirmoutier complete the picture.
West of Pornic, the coast road runs to Préfailles and the Pointe Saint-Gildas, with a string of small beaches and a lighthouse at the tip: the best spot on this coast for a sunset.
Which beach for whom?
- Very young children: Les Moutiers or La Bernerie, at mid-to-high tide.
- Swimming and coastal walks: Pornic (La Noëveillard, La Source) and the sentier des douaniers.
- Shellfish gathering: the bay at low tide, with a bucket and a tide table.
- Sunset and photos: Pointe Saint-Gildas.
Practical
- All beaches are free; parking can be tight in Pornic in July and August, so arrive early or park above the town.
- Tide tables are posted at every harbour and available online; the bay changes completely between high and low water.
- Back at the house, the garden, barbecue and pétanque court are waiting for the end of the day.
